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Colors
Women know how to match colors, and so should you. If this is a problem for you, get help from a woman. None of the fashion tips that follow will mean anything if you wear mismatched colors.
Brighter and edgier colors and color combinations can work for you, even at work if your company is not too conservative. Primary bright colors can be mixed and matched and will stay in style for some time.
Don't underestimate the versatility of black and white. Mixing black and white garments gives you a stunning variety of coordination choices. You can put more different colors with these two basic ones than with any other colors.
You can also go monochrome, but take care that the shades match. If you go monochrome, pick a tie that is in a contrasting color to make your outfit pop.
Shirts and Ties
There is no such thing as a short-sleeve dress shirt.
A white dress shirt with a dark suit is always safe for semiformal evening wear. But always playing it safe is no fun! Try a black suit with a colored shirt, such as dark red, for a change.
At the office, white or blue dress shirts are business staples. Dark-toned, striped, or check will make a nice change.
Opening your shirt collar and loosening your tie does not make you look cool or relaxed. It makes you look drunk.
Normally you should wear a straight-collar shirt with a suit. A button-down collar dress shirt may be worn if it is one of high quality. Button downs also go nicely with a blazer or sport coat.
Festive ties with teddy bears or Santa Claus faces are fine for festive occasions, but not for the office.
Adjust the width of your tie's knot to the width of your shirt collar. The wider the collar, the wider the knot. From narrowest to widest knot, learn how to tie the four-in-hand, half-Windsor, and Windsor knot.
A properly tied necktie will have a dimple under the knot.
Neckties come in two lengths: the standard length of 56 inches and the longer 60 inches. Be sure to buy a standard 56-inch tie unless you are over six feet tall or have a protruding belly. The bottom of your tie should just cover your belt buckle.
Own at least two dress shirts of different colors with French cuffs. You can find cuff links that are color-coordinated with your outfit, or wear silver, which goes with anything. Cuff links with precious stones are the most formal.
Poly/cotton blend dress shirts hold their press well but will fade over time. Spend the money and the effort to iron pure cotton shirts. You will look sharper and the shirts will hold that bright color longer. Another alternative is the newer no-iron, all-cotton dress shirt first sold by Brooks Brothers. After sewing, a compound is baked into the fabric with an adhesive on the seams that prevents the shirt from puckering at the cuffs, collar, and placket. Depending on where you buy these shirts, expect to pay $30 to $65 per copy. So far, this process is only workable for smoother cottons such as pinpoint oxford and 2-ply broadcloth. The process is not yet available for finer weave cottons.
While they are even more prone to wrinkling than cotton, linen casual shirts have exceptional drape and look very elegant. You will be rewarded for paying the extra money and doing the extra ironing.
Follow Alan Flusser's tips on combining patterns from his book, Dressing the Man. If you combine two patterns of the same design, make the size of each as different from the other as possible. If you have chalk stripes on your suit that are three-quarters of an inch apart, your shirt needs narrow stripes; if your shirt has a narrow stripe, your tie needs a wider stripe. A windowpane jacket can work with a shirt that has a small-gauge check, but two large checks compete with each other.
Suiting Up
Buttoning a suit or sport coat: Two-button coat: button only the top button
three-button coat: button the top two buttons or the middle button only.
Four-button coat: button the top three buttons.
Double-breasted (DB) suit: DB suits are referred to as 4/2, 6/2, or some other number combinations. The first number refers to the number of buttons visible on the front of the coat, while the second number refers to the number of them that are functional. If there is more than one functioning button, leave the bottom one unbuttoned.
If you are a bit overweight, the extra cloth wrapped around your middle will emphasize your girth when you wear a DB suit.
DB suits are more formal than single-breasted ones. When you wear one, wear your best watch, a shirt with French cuffs if you have one, and a silk tie.
When sitting, unbuttoning your suit coat will look more natural and prevent stress on the buttons.
When wearing a coat and tie, consider adding a dash of color with a silk pocket puff in your coat's breast pocket. Choose one that picks up a color in your tie or a color in a subtle stripe in your suit or sport coat.
Trousers should break over the top of your shoe and strike just above the heel of your shoe.
Look for lined trousers, at least to the knee. They will have better drape and will wear longer.
Trousers with pleats are often dressier than plain-front trousers. Trousers with pleats look best with cuffs.
In both casual and dress slacks, the trend is toward flat-front instead of pleated. Plain front trousers will give you a trimmer and less dated look.
Do not remove your jacket when making a business presentation.
Shoes & Belts
Buy shoes late in the afternoon. Your feet are at their largest at the end of the day.
Lace-up shoes are normally worn with a suit, but high-quality, dressy loafers may sometimes substitute. You can wear either loafers OR lace-up shoes with a sport coat or blazer and slacks.
Keep a good shine on leather shoes. People WILL notice.
Good shoes are expensive, but will pay for themselves in quality, style, and longevity. Be sure to own at least a black and a brown pair. Cordovan is another good color choice that will match many colors of slacks.
One of the best investments you can make for your shoes is a pair of shoe trees. Storing your shoes with the trees inserted will keep them looking newer. Cedar shoe trees are best. They absorb moisture and add a pleasant aroma.
Never wear both a belt and suspenders.
The prong of a properly fitting belt will go through the strap's third hole.
Casual Moments
Business casual dress is often abused. Some firms have abandoned the concept because some employees wear: Blue jeans
Sweat pants and sweat shirts
shorts
sneakers
Business casual usually does mean: A nice sports shirt or sweater with a pair of dress slacks. Add a sport coat over either for a little more class.
White pants and shoes are not wise choices for the office, but are great for parties and weekends. Wear your whites between Memorial Day and Labor Day.
When wearing a sports shirt or v-neck during warm weather, don't be afraid to show a little neck. It makes us look vulnerable to women, which, of course, we are.
When wearing a v-neck during cooler weather, try a t-shirt with contrasting color underneath. Be sure that the collar of the t-shirt is pressed flat and smooth.
You can wear many kinds of tops with blue jeans, including a sweater or a dark-colored sport coat over a shirt or light sweater. One can't-miss option with blue jeans, and my personal favorite, is a white oxford, button-down collar shirt.
Wear rougher-finished, casual shoes with jeans. Nubucks or boots are good choices. Sneakers or running shoes are for the gym and the track, not for jeans. This fashion rule holds true no matter how often you see it violated by both men and women.
Slacks should rest on the top of your hip bones.
Skin-tight jeans or leather pants look great on rock stars. When you take your band on the road, you should wear them on stage. Until then, wear looser-fitting pants.
